outdoor living » the 10 bushcraft books » huts & thatch (sup.)

.materials for lashings

In bushcraft work it is assumed that no manufactured materials are available, and therefore in hut making lashing must be used when no nails are available. Rope, too, may be unprocurable, and it is their necessary to know what natural materials can be used and how.

For lashing, sewing, and tying, any ground or tree vine which has length, strength and pliability will serve. Length, of course, is visible and easily found, but tests for strength and pliability should be applied. The test for strength is simply to exert a steady straight pull oil the material. You will be able to judge its breaking strain if under 60 or 80 lbs. [25 or 35 kg]. The test for pliability is to tie a thumb knot in the vine and gently pull the knot tight. If the vine snaps or cuts upon itself, it lacks pliability and must be discarded.

In addition to ground and tree vines, the outer skin of the long leaves of most palms may be used for ties. To harvest these, nick the hard outer shell with a cut about ¼" [6 mm] wide and 1/8" [3 mm] deep. Start the outer cane splitting, and to prevent it "running off" bend the thick portion away from the thin.

This is most important. If you pull the thin strip and bend it away from the main stalk, it will split for a few feet and then "run off." This principle of bending AWAY from the tendency to run off applies to all canes, palms, vines, bamboos and barks.

.barks

The inner bark of many shrubs and trees, alive or dead, also makes excellent lashing material. Strip down to the required thickness, but watch out for weak places.

.special knots

Many of the sedges have length and strength and may be used for lashing and sewing work.

Nearly all the bulrushes can serve as lashings, and many of the "sword grasses" or sedges, but be careful handling these, as the razor-sharp edge can make nasty little cuts in your skin which poison easily. If handling any of the sword grasses, put a pair of socks on your hands and so save your skin.

.sedges and bulrushes

These green materials require special knots if they are to be used to best advantage. For example, the customary start of a square lashing is with a clove hitch, but a clove hitch on "green" bush material is useless. The natural springiness in the material will cause the start of the knot to open. ALWAYS start a lashing with a timber hitch, as shown in the illustration.

And ALWAYS see that the free end passes straight through the "eye" and does not come back against the eye. If it does, it will probably cut itself.

Start your lashing with a timber hitch.	Make three to six complete turns around the two poles, and "work" them together as you tighten the lashing at each turn.	The frapping turns follow. These frapping turns close the lashing in, and tighten the whole job. Finish off by passing the free end of the material through an opening of the lashing and finish with a couple of half hitches pulled tight.

.joining green materials

An overhand knot (Fig. 1) will often serve, but if the material "cuts", try a sheet bend (Fig. 2) or a reef knot (Fig. 3). There are many ways of joining green materials either by plaiting or by spinning into rope.

.wall pegs

Wall pegs, and all stakes which are to be driven into the ground, must be straight, have the head bevelled and the foot pointed. This is shown on the illustration on the left. Avoid pointing with a single cut, as illustrated on right.